Visas and vistas in Java’s historic hub

7th - 13th March 2015

We were a little upset about leaving Pangandaran as we could have quite happily chilled out there for a fortnight but as usual it seemed no sooner we unpack it’s time to bundle our belonging again. Once again our outbound mode of transportation was a cramped minibus but at least the seven hour journey was bearable.

queuing at the Kraton

    It was mid-afternoon by the time we reached the hostel area of Java’s city of culture and history, Yogyakarta (also spelt Jogjakarta). Finding some overnight digs is straight forward enough as there are three pedestrian alleyways (conveniently signposted as gangs 1, 2 and 3) opposite the central railway station. Each gang offers a number of guest homes, restaurants and other useful services so there is no real need to venture long distances, unless you want to. We booked a room at “Setia Kawan Losmen Guesthouse” opposite the popular “Andrea Hotel”. Setia Kawan was comfortable enough and for a reasonable price of Rp 100,000 our stay included free breakfast, en-suite bathroom and A/C.



It's lavish for Indonesia at least

     We decided to wander the streets on our first full day and headed toward the “Kraton” area. The Kraton makes up the very central district of the city and is home to the palace grounds. The grounds are a good way to kill an hour although if you visit expecting grand and expensive artifacts it may be a little disappointing. Many of the exhibits seem to showcase the royal families “incredibly fascinating” collection of tea pots, coffee mugs, cameras and other everyday items. Don’t miss the cutlery, frying pan and spatula exhibit you’ll only regret it. If you have not seen a shadow puppet show before the palace contains a nice seating area to highlight this important ancient form of entertainment although it is better to visit in the evening to experience the show in all its splendor.

 

     To see the best that Yogyakarta has to offer you have to venture outside the city. Java’s most popular attraction Borobodur temple is around an hour’s drive away and the best tours leave early at around 4am to capture the sunrise over the temple from a nearby vantage point before visiting the temple proper and then returning to Yogyakarta to visit another popular temple Prambanan. We booked the tour at the main tourist information centre with some friends from Pangandaran and prepared for the early morning wake up call.

sunrise view

A local minibus driver picked us up bright and early and headed to the vantage point. Sadly our efforts went unrewarded as fog and cloud cover obscured the sunrise (it is the rainy season so it was always going to be a long shot), however it did highlight another type of tourist that without fail offers a comical spectacle. I’m talking about the “TRIPOD TRAVELLERS”. Despite it being obvious from the outset that opportunities of photographic bliss would be limited, these idiots still jostle, push, fight and distract their way to what they believe is the perfect spot for panoramic photographs.

Tri-plodders fighting for that perfect foggy view

In fact some of the more experienced “Tri-plodders” seem to have spent so much time standing next to their beloved camera stands they begin to resemble the cumbersome items. Many carry one of those hiking sticks with a handle which allows them to turn the stick into a seat. Ironically as they sit there with a branch shoved firmly up their bottoms they fail to realise that as they now have three legs and should have just taped the camera to their head instead and saved themselves a few hundred queens’ heads.

Bruvs on Borobodur

     Borobodur was a much nicer experience and although it’s fair to say we have visited so many temples in the last few months few live up to the spectacle of the Khmer temples of Cambodia, Borobodur was a real surprise. After climbing the many steps to the top visitors are presented with a collection of small domes containing stone idols. The temple itself sits in a valley surrounded by sleeping active volcanoes in every direction. It’s easy to see why people see the area as a special religious sight.

what a view!



PLAYER!

    



You can see why faith is important here

 Talking of religion and spirituality, unusually the peaceful serenity atop the temple was disturbed by the incessant chanting of what I at first believed to be a school of monks. It was only when they crept into eyeshot that it became apparent most of the howlers were western tourist who had obviously paid money to be involved in some journey towards spirituality. Now it’s important to say at this point that I consider myself an atheist and although I accept many people use religion to achieve great things there are aspects of it that are quite hilarious and this was one such example. Stereotypes are sometimes a bad thing but on this occasion it was hard to ignore the demographic of the people paying good money for this sponsored groan-athon. At first glance no similarities existed. It was a mixture of men and women of different ages and ethnicities. However almost all had dreadlocks, silk trousers, hemp shirts or the dreaded top knot. After travelling Asia for six months we have met many people who fit this category and I can safely say that the only reason these people persevere with looking like an utter imbecile is so they can head back to the hostel and boast about how spiritually cleansed they feel. That’s all well and good but I think the only thing that’s been truly cleansed is their damn bank account. No wonder the monk had a smile on his face because essentially his found a way to make money by doing very little. 

     

Where's Jono gone?

The group of twenty or so tourist followed the monk in slow precession circling the temple before climbing to the first level where they would circle the temple again and so on all the way to the summit. Always moaning inaudible notes and waving their hands in a way that resembled the Macarena. The ones nearest the monk at the front always looked keener than the stragglers who judging by their faces had finally realised they could have done the same thing for free without forking out $50. They say there’s one born every minute but it’s not every day you get a group of them at the same place (unless you visit Old Trafford at a weekend).

A gaggle of morons

    Our third and final stop was at Prambanan temple and after Borobodur it was a little bit of an anti-climax. The sight was a pretty much an undamaged replica of the ruined temples we saw in Thailand in Ayutthaya, except it lacked any real character. If you haven’t seen an Asian temple before try to visit this one before Borobodur and you’ll see what I mean. Sure the carvings are exquisite but the temple itself felt dingy, smelt of urine and offers limited photographic opportunities unless you like the sight of Yogyakarta in the background. All was not lost though because we got to see our minibus driver have an argument with another passenger after they realised they had paid more than us for entry. They got their money back in the end and our pissed off driver was kind enough to give us an aggressive drive back to our guesthouse.

Prambanan

    If you visit Yogyakarta you have to try the temple day tour. On our occasion we didn’t get a good sunrise but that’s the way it goes sometimes and in many ways Borobodur makes up for the tours faults.

The carefully carved spires are impressive

Travelling Tips at the temples

·         The minibus drivers will try to sell you entrance tickets before entering the temples. Just kindly decline and buy a ticket at the appropriate desk. The drivers buy the tickets themselves to sell on at a slightly inflated price.

·         It is possible to buy a combo ticket for both temples although it’s not clearly advertised at the desk (The signs only show adult and child prices for one temple). If you request the combination ticket the women at the ticket desk will know what you mean and you can save a little money.

·         Visitor with student cards pay 50% less. Just try with a driving license, who knows you may get lucky.



Traditional Go-cart track at Prambanan



     I would like to say that we visited more sights on our 6 day visit but unfortunately for us we had an administrative barrier to cross in the form of a visa extension. Unlike Malaysia and Singapore visitors from the UK and other countries can only obtain an initial 30 day visa on entry unless they apply for the two month visa from their home country. Obviously we haven’t been home for a while so were therefore stuck with the initial 30 days. This visa can be extended for an additional 30 days if you need longer and we sure needed more time to get to Bali and Lombok to search for a final boat.

     Many people apply and obtain the Indonesian visa extension however sometimes the procedures can be a little confusing and advice online is limited so here is a quick guide on obtaining an extension in Yogyakarta (other immigration offices may vary in speed and professionalism). It took three long days but we finally had our visa and were ready to continue through Java towards Bali.

Ayutthaya: The Ancient Capital of Siam

15th - 17th December 2014

The night train from Chiang Mai signaled our return to rail travel after nearly three months and it was a big relief. A four bed cabin, just enough legroom and meals available if required. Luxury compared to minibuses.

The majority of western travelers onboard were heading to the end of the line at Bangkok but we were on a different agenda, which entailed a desperate need to find some history in Thailand.
Arriving in Ayutthaya at 5am meant the shroud of darkness hid the ancient capitals structure from view, adding an element of mystery on the short boat trip across the river.

Top Tip:

If you arrive in Ayutthaya train station don't take a tuk tuk into town (charge 50 baht) as there is a ferry across the river from a small street directly opposite the station for 5 baht.




 

 

Trains, boats, bicycles and Darth Vader tuk tuks

After avoiding being ripped off by the tuk tuk drivers our first task was to locate a place to stay. Tamarind Guesthouse was our first choice as it commands great reviews online at a cheap price. Sadly they were fully booked so we walked the short distance to Tamarinds sister hostel "My House Guesthouse". This new kid on the block has pristine and modern rooms with A/C, private bathroom and in our case a small but welcome balcony.

Ayutthaya is a pretty old city. The UNESCO heritage site was first founded in the 14th century as the capital of the Thai empire at a time when they dominated the majority of South East Asia.
The best way to explore the many temples is by bicycle although if your feeling lazy or a little immobile there's always a tuk tuk available. Unlike the Khmer temples in neighbouring Cambodia the ancient structures require a little bit of imagination to visualize the city in its true glory, mostly due to the past decisions of one of Thailand's other neighbours, Burma. The Burmese conquered large swathes of Thailand and sacked the then Siamese capital in 1767.
Our favourites included Wat Mahathat with its famous Buddha head sprouting from the base of a tree, Wat Chai Wattanaram with its large complex of towers and the large Reclining Buddha in the north west of the moated city.

Temples, temples, temples

If you feel the temple headache taking hold you can always catch a ferry back across the river to the Portuguese quadrant, Muslim district or if you don't care about animal cruelty visit the elephant kraal for a pachyderm ride

Chiang Mai

9th - 11th December 2014

Chiang Mai and Doi Suthep

The Green Bus was our mode of transportation from the similarly named Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai and it was the certainly the most comfortable bus we'd seen since Europe. Its easy to see why the company is popular with travellers due to the facilities they provide on board. Extra leg room, wifi, tv, bathroom a free bottle of water and complimentary snacks, luxury. Even in high season seats are readily available. No need to pre book, role up at least two hours before and find the company counter and "jobs a guddun". Don't under any circumstances book through your hostel/guesthouse as you'll get slightly ripped of due to the inherent commission fee. It's not being a tight arse just travel savvy.

We stayed at Diva Guesthouse 2. One of a chain of three different hostels all in great locations throughout the historic walled interior of Chiang Mai. All the typical services are provided and the staff were really cool and helpful.

There are more  than 300 temples within the boundaries of Chiang Mai with a dozen stand-outs of historical or architectural significance within walking distance of each other. So you can safely say that we were once again "WAT'ed"  out within a day.

We decided to take a Tuk Tuk  and visit the very popular temple referred to as "Doi Suthep" although this is actually the name of the mountain it is located on. The temple is located 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from the city of Chiang Mai and is a sacred site to many Thai people. From the temple, impressive views of Chiang Mai can be seen and it remains a popular destination for tourists.
Sadly our spectacular view was limited to smog and the nearby airport but I guess on a clear day it would be wonderful. We paid a small entrance fee for being a tourist but no one checked the tickets so you could just walk on In. The temple is impressive with the gold leaf finish but it's hard to ignore the fact that this is a touristy thing and it felt like we were at a theme park seeing monks selling tack from stools. There are definitely better temples elsewhere.

In the evening there are many  things do see and do including watching a Thai boxing match, massage or if you are into shopping there are many markets on different days but the most popular is the night bazaar  on Chang Khlan Rd (between Tha Phae Rd and Si Donchai Rd). 18:00-24:00. A huge indoor/outdoor market stretching along both sides of the road with the Night Bazaar Building at the centre of the maelstrom. It can take a concerted effort to find something interesting among the near identical stalls selling tourist-oriented trinkets, T-shirts and fake merchandise. You rarely see Thai people shopping here just tourists on vacation.

One evening we had the privilege of meeting up with our good friend from school Phil Hughes who's been living and teaching English here for four years. Kind of makes our six months away from home look like a baby step. It always nice getting some sound local advice from a familiar face and reminisce about life. This naturally involved a lot of football banter and beer of coarse.

Chiang Mai certainly has enough to occupy travellers and tourists for a few days before moving on. Although if you don't enjoy being around other tourists and want to experience Thai culture your probably better going elsewhere. It's a bit of a tourist trap. In our case we decided to head towards Pai and try out the Mae Hong Son loop. Onward on the tourist trap trail.

Chiang Rai and The Golden Triangle

7th - 9th December 2014

It was an incredibly smooth and carefree crossing into Thailand from Laos. In fact if it hadn't been for our transport suddenly driving on the left hand side of the road (the proper side) we wouldn't have even noticed the transition.

Two hours later we were in Chiang Rai's second bus terminal which is located around 10km out of the city centre. The new station is convenient for travelers bypassing Chiang Rai but if your staying it means catching a tuk tuk. I had a slight problem as my debit card was not responding well to any of the stations ATM's. This becomes a bit stressful when you have no Thai Baht to hand, however the tuk tuk driver was nice enough to drop us off at a good bank so we could pay him.
After making some accommodation inquiries and booked a couple of nights in "Orchids Guesthouse". Its located a few streets away from the central bus terminal and the night market and the cheap private rooms with private bathroom were luxury to us.

Chiang Rai itself has very little in the way of sights once you have seen the clock tower and night market that's it. However round this province city there are a few sights that compete with Thailands best. We opted for a day tour around the region with stop offs at Wat Rong Khun, Baan Dam, The Golden Triangle and a tea plantation.

Wat Rong Khun known by tourists as "The White Temple" is not the oldest Wat we've visited but certainly the most interesting. Designed an owned by local artist Chalermchai Kositpipat the temple is a reflection of the artists image of heaven and hell with Buddhist influences thrown into the mix. Despite opening in 1997 the temple remains unfinished and slightly damaged due to the impact of a recent earthquake in May 2014. Sadly we were unable to see the interior as it was "cleaning day" but there is enough unusual architecture to keep you interested for the one hour stop. The grounds also contain a gallery containing the artists work.

The White Temple

Next stop was the White Temples alter ego the Black House. Originally the home of another prolific local artist Thawan Duchanee the residence is now more of a museum/memorial. Like Chalermchai's work at the White Temple, Thawan's art is also strongly influenced by Buddhism although the similarities seem to end there as the aptly named Black House celebrates much darker aspects of the world. The premises contains a range of wonderfully designed buildings containing a plethora of oddities the artists collected during his life although most are animal bones. The design and architecture of the predominantly wooden structures is something to behold and the artists meticulous work really shows.

Black House

After a morning of contrasts our minibus ventured North away from Chiang Rai towards the Thai border and the infamous Golden Triangle. The border region of Thailand, Laos and Myanmar has been the breadbasket of opium production for centuries and although activities have come to an end in Thailand heroin remains a big earner for its neighbours. If you visit the area make sure you visit the Opium Museum. The small premises is actually incredibly thorough in its informative exhibitions. It even gives a step by step guide into how to create heroin from opium so its fun for the whole family.

The Golden Triangle and Tea Plantation

The region remains fertile even today but now specializes in another addictive crop, tea. The rolling hills around the North of Thailand are perfect for plantations and to be honest there's no better way to end a hectic day tour than watching the sun set with a nice hot brew in your hand.

Champasak: Wat a cracker

14th - 16th November 2014

View from the Mekong 

Will "the cabin boy" Dadson

It took two ferry crossings and a short bus journey to get from Don Det in the 4000 islands to Champasak.

Champasak is a great pit stop for anyone heading north or south along the main tourist track. It's position on the Eastern bank of the Mekong means that it's isolated from the main highway and provides peaceful places to relax and listen to the steady churn of the river.

Jono storming ahead

Lakes at the entrance 

Wat Phu from the main path

Bit of a climb to the top 

There's only one true sight close to Champasak, Wat Phu. Like the Temples we visited around Siem Reap, Wat Phu was constructed during the rule of the Khmer Empire. The temple is by no means in as pristine condition as Angkor Wat with crumbling walls and eroded carvings. However unlike its Cambodian neighbours Wat Phu is still an active worship sight and it's elevated, dominant position offers stunning views of the surrounding fertile floodplain sand the Mekong beyond. Wat Phu also boasts two unique animal themed stones. The elephant and crocodile stones take a little bit of searching to locate and I do think the locals embellished the grandeur of these artefacts a little. Check out the pics .......impressive eh.

The Elephant Stone. Nice eh

The Crocodile Stone. Wow!

Whilst walking around Champasak on our first evening we were informed by a Frenchman working in the area that the local community hall performs a traditional shadow puppet theatre every Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. As the pubs aren't open late we opted to check it out.
We had seen a performance at the water puppet theatre in Hanoi two months ago and despite the immediate lack of facilities and funding the locals did an incredibly good job (although I have to admit Jono and I did fall asleep a few times. Only because we were so enveloped in the plot, promise). A ticket cost 50,000 kip (£4.10) and all the proceeds are pumped back into funding the community centre. It must be noted that the show is obviously performed in Laos and information sheets are displayed explaining the plot although only in French. In my opinion this made it more fun as you can fill in the plot gaps yourself.

Next stop Pakse!